We drive through the city centre and through some very poor residential neighbourhoods — areas where you really wouldn't want to be after dark. Shop goods spill out onto the streets and the overall impression is far from inviting. It's not really worth sightseeing in the city itself. You're better off booking an interesting excursion such as the Maya Ruins, Rainforest Canopy, River Tubing, snorkelling or diving.

About the police officer with the submachine gun, our driver simply remarked: "He doesn't just look dangerous — if in doubt, he is."

At the flea market right next to the cruise pier we mingle with the locals, browse the handicrafts and drink a freshly opened coconut with rum — what else. Even if the coconut man, well into his cups, looks a little dangerous — he was incredibly cool. When I asked whether I could take a photo, he answered: "You're in Belize, man, you can do whatever you want here."

The locals we come into contact with are very friendly and helpful.

Finally, we stroll along the pier until the last tender boat departs, past those typically tourist-oriented shops aimed squarely at cruise visitors.