It rains often and a fresh breeze frequently sweeps through the charming streets of Copenhagen — no surprise, since the Danish capital, whose name literally means "merchant's harbor," sits right on the sea atop glacial ground. But the city's half a million residents are far from cold and reserved. Quite the opposite: Kai Hockenjos encountered wonderfully hospitable people and spent a perfect day in Denmark's vibrant metropolis.
8:30 AM:
"Godmorgen"! Hotels typically serve an internationally inspired breakfast — called "morgenmad" in Danish — with coffee or tea, bread, jam, cold cuts, and cheese. Nothing too spectacular. Instead, treat yourself to a real "wienerbrød" at one of the delightful downtown cafes, such as "Cafe Sommersko" on Kronprinsensgade 6 (metro stop "Kongens Nytorv"). Yes, that's really what it's called — a delicious Danish pastry filled with vanilla custard or a mixture of butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Incredibly tasty and wonderfully rich. Time for a digestive stroll! No problem — Copenhagen boasts the Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe.
10 AM:
From Kongens Nytorv, the Royal Market Square, the Strøget winds gently all the way to Copenhagen's City Hall Square. This shopping boulevard is lined with the city's most exclusive stores and retail temples, including the "Royal Copenhagen Complex" — a charming Renaissance palace housing the world-famous Royal Copenhagen porcelain manufactory on Amagertorv Square. Southeast of there, toward City Hall Square, you'll find the "Latin Quarter," where trendy Copenhagen does its shopping. In quirky basement shops and eclectic boutiques, you'll discover everything from cutting-edge avant-garde fashion and second-hand clothing to extravagant leather goods.
12 PM:
Time for a "Frokost" — what the Danes call lunch, which usually features the world-famous "Smørrebrød": essentially a generously buttered open-faced sandwich piled high with fish, meat, or vegetables. These traditional Danish bites taste superb at "Aamann's" on Øster Farimagsgade 10. From there, it's just a few steps to the Danish National Gallery (Statens Museum for Kunst, Sølvgade 48-50), which presents rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists and houses the Royal Collection of paintings, sculptures, and engravings.
2:30 PM:
Copenhagen is as vibrant as it is diverse — and your afternoon options reflect just that. Thrill-seekers should hop on a bus to Tivoli, the world-famous amusement park in the heart of the city between City Hall and the Central Station. Lines 10, 15, 30, 40, and 66 stop right in front of the sprawling grounds. The park opened back in 1843 and hasn't lost an ounce of its appeal since. Countless rides, roller coasters, attractions, restaurants, and the world's tallest chain carousel at 80 meters keep the magic alive. Admission is a reasonable 95 Danish Kroner — roughly 13 euros.
If you'd rather explore the city on foot and perhaps hunt for bargains, head to the popular flea market at "Gammel Strand" (bus lines 15, 26, 29, 1A, 2A). Don't let the name fool you — "Gammel" simply means "old" in Danish. From there, it's a half-hour stroll to "Nyhavn" (New Harbor), with its colorful gabled houses, pubs, cafes, and bars — the entertainment district of the city. Before you get there, a scenic canal tour is well worth your time. Copenhagen's waterways are incredibly picturesque, and the boat offers fantastic views of the city's greatest attractions.
The Royal Library is an architectural masterpiece on the waterfront, nicknamed the "Black Diamond" for its 2,500 square meters of polished dark granite facade. Christiansborg Palace, seat of the Danish Parliament, and Amalienborg Palace, the city residence of Queen Margrethe II, can also be admired from the water. You'll also enjoy a perfect view of the famous "Vor Frelsers Kirke" (Church of Our Saviour) with its spiraling spire rising to 36 meters. Only "Den lille Havfrue" — the beloved Little Mermaid statue by Copenhagen sculptor Edvard Eriksen — was no longer sitting on her usual spot at the Langelinie Pier. Until October 2010, the small icon was on display at the Danish Pavilion at the World Expo in Shanghai — much to the displeasure of many Copenhagen locals, by the way.
4 PM:
For a more alternative afternoon, head to "Christiania" — a free state within the state of Denmark. "Fristad Christiania," proclaimed by Danish hippies in 1971, sits on the grounds of a former military barracks in the Christianshavn district. Around 1,000 dropouts are said to still live on the 34-hectare site today — self-governed and following their own rules. Weapons, violence, and hard drugs are banned in Christiania, as are cars and motorcycles. The community has its own street cleaning service and kindergartens, along with a handful of shops and cafes. The alternative lifestyle is reflected in the picturesque architecture around the lake — from flower-draped camper vans and idyllic treehouses to rambling wooden structures. On the so-called "Pusher Street," the sale of soft drugs (marijuana, hashish, mushrooms) was tolerated by the Danish government for years. Current regulations officially prohibit sales, though compliance is another story. One thing tourists should definitely avoid: photographing the dealers' stalls. That's when the flower children get literally combative!
7 PM:
Getting hungry? The day's grand finale is a true highlight: "Noma" — the best restaurant in the world. Located in a former warehouse at Strandgade 93 in Christianshavn, it was recently crowned number one by the prestigious London-based "Restaurant Magazine." Head chef René Redzepi has dedicated himself to creative Nordic cuisine, using exclusively Scandinavian ingredients. The result is sensational: no pretentious frills, just masterful cooking. Add an easygoing, almost casual service that's rare in a two-Michelin-star establishment. Some dishes are even designed to be eaten with your fingers — absolutely mouthwatering! The seven-course dinner menu costs 1,095 Danish Kroner (around 150 euros), but it's worth every single cent. Before the meal begins, the kitchen sends out an array of amuse-bouches, like smoked quail egg on hay. Each course is served by the chef who prepared it — a wonderful touch. Highlights include paper-thin scallops with watercress; salsify with milk skin and truffle from Gotland; pickled vegetables with poached marrow and bouillon; or braised beef cheek with chicory and verbena. Food can be so beautiful — the plates are culinary works of art, almost too pretty to eat. Close your eyes, open your mouth, and simply savor. Even hours later in your hotel bed, the sensational flavors linger on your palate, gently rocking you into the most delicious dreams — "Godnat"!
Kai Hockenjos
