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Paris - City Guide

The Perfect Day in ... Paris!

by Kai Hockenjos

Paris has almost as many nicknames as inhabitants. It is the "Capital of Love," the "City of Light," "a moveable feast," the "home of savoir-vivre," and simply the "most romantic metropolis in the world." No other city boasts as many famous landmarks as this eleven-million-strong metropolis on the Seine.

Kai Hockenjos strolled through the Parisian arrondissements (administrative districts) and spent a perfect day in the French capital.

8:30 AM:

If you're not staying at a five-star hotel, skip the hotel breakfast (usually limp croissants in cellophane wrappers, weak coffee, and sugary juice) and instead settle into a charming café to kick off the day with a "grand crème" (large café au lait) and fresh "pain au chocolat" (chocolate pastry). The perfect spots for this are "Café Hugo" or "Ma Bourgogne," tucked beneath romantic arcades at the delightful "Place des Vosges" in the 4th arrondissement (metro station: St. Paul or Bastille).

The cliché of the typical French breakfast — a cigarette and coffee — holds some truth in that the French don't place much value on a lavish breakfast. They usually eat just a piece of yesterday's baguette spread with jam or butter, washed down with hot café au lait.

10 AM:

Paris is the city of museums — there are said to be around 160 of them. Just around the corner from the Place des Vosges, on "Rue de Thorigny," the Picasso Museum is housed in the listed Hôtel Salé, a magnificent building dating back to 1656. For admirers of the great master, it's an absolute must! Around 3,500 works by the renowned artist are on display, along with part of Picasso's personal art collection.

A stone's throw away is the "Bastille," Paris's most famous monument that no longer actually exists. On July 14, 1789, the Bastille — the French state prison — was stormed by revolutionaries. The notorious fortress was subsequently demolished. In its place, the "Colonne de Juillet" (July Column) now rises 52 meters into the sky as a memorial to those who fell in the street battles of the July Revolution of 1830. For the 200th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, the "Opéra Bastille" was inaugurated on July 14, 1989 — an opera house of immense scale. Guided tours lasting around 75 minutes are available.

12 PM:

Now it's time for Paris's most iconic attraction — the Eiffel Tower. From the "Place de la Bastille," it's just a few minutes by metro (station: Bir-Hakeim). Since the World Exhibition of 1889, the 300-meter-tall steel giant has been casting its long shadow over the 7th arrondissement. The Parisian art and intellectual scene, led by the writer Alexandre Dumas, had previously railed against the construction of the "metal asparagus," as the Eiffel Tower was mockingly called. Fortunately, to no avail. Today, nearly six million visitors a year flock to the 10,000-ton colossus held together by 2.5 million steel rivets. The crowds at the elevators are correspondingly massive! Those with stamina and courage should take the steel stairs to the observation platforms. Several hundred steps lead up to the second platform at 115 meters, while elevators go up to the third platform at 276 meters — on a clear day, the views extend up to 70 kilometers.

2 PM:

Time for "déjeuner" — lunch. For many Parisians, it's still the main meal of the day with at least three courses. As a tourist, the sheer number of restaurants, cafés, and bistros presents you with an overwhelming choice. And Paris isn't cheap — a three-course meal for two can easily run into three figures. Better to go for something more affordable and authentic: there are large markets with a rich selection all over the city. For example, on "Rue Montorgueil" in the 2nd arrondissement (metro station: "Les Halles"). There you'll find everything your heart and stomach desire. With baguette, red wine, and cheese in your backpack, you can settle comfortably on a park bench or by the banks of the Seine to savor the culinary delights at your leisure.

4 PM:

Refreshed and refueled, it's time for a stroll to the city center attractions — starting with the "Centre Pompidou" in the 4th arrondissement, a kind of "inside-out" building with escalators and pipes running along the exterior walls. Inside, it houses a massive cultural center with exhibitions, collections, museums, restaurants, and the vast "Bibliothèque Publique d'Information."

Around the square, numerous cafés and boutiques invite you to linger or shop.

Cathédrale de Notre-Dame

By metro, continue to the place where the first settlers arrived 300 years before Christ: on to the Seine islands, the "Île de la Cité."

 

At its heart stands the "Cathédrale de Notre-Dame" (metro station: Cité), arguably the most famous church in the world — or at least the most visited. Over 10 million tourists stream in and around the cathedral each year, making it the most visited site in Paris.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arc de Triomphe on the Champs-Élysées

If the crowds are too much, take the metro toward the "Jardin du Luxembourg" (metro station: Luxembourg), the city's open-air meeting point. The magnificent, once-royal palace garden spans 26 hectares and offers plenty of space for a short breather before continuing by metro to Paris's most famous boulevard — the much-celebrated "Champs-Élysées." The best stop is "Charles de Gaulle-Étoile," which exits directly at the iconic Arc de Triomphe. From its platform, you can take in a wonderful view of the grand boulevard before strolling along it. Luxurious boutiques from nearly every major fashion house line up alongside pompous department stores and extravagant automobile showrooms — truly a sight to behold!

7 PM:

Time for dinner! That delicious doesn't have to mean expensive is proven by Thierry Breton with his classic bistro cuisine. His restaurant "Chez Michel" at 10 Rue de Belzunce in the 10th arrondissement near the "Gare du Nord" is currently the insider tip in Paris. The magazine "Der Feinschmecker" recently crowned Breton the "best value champion of Paris." The three-course menu costs 30 euros — and it's worth every cent. The menu changes daily, bringing fresh delights from entrecôte to exquisite terrines and authentic Breton dishes to fine lobster or fresh fish — magnifique! If you haven't reserved in advance (phone: 0033-144 53 06 20), arrive before 7 PM to snag a free spot in the cozy cellar, where guests sit convivially on benches at long wooden tables.

11 PM:

Ramsey once crooned about "Pigalle, the great mousetrap in the heart of Paris." And indeed, if you haven't been to the "Montmartre" district — the 18th arrondissement — you haven't truly seen Paris. Here, at the "Place Pigalle," you'll find frivolous variety shows galore, led by the famous "Moulin Rouge," alongside erotic temples, striptease bars, and flamboyant boutiques.

 

Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

The district is crowned by the Basilica of the Sacred Heart — the "Basilique du Sacré-Cœur" — which sits serenely atop the hill ("Butte Montmartre"). Further below, nightlife buzzes in the evenings. Slightly away from Place Pigalle, you'll find trendy clubs and cabarets, while in the northwestern part (metro station: Abbesses), hip bars and stylish restaurants await. At 15 Rue Lepic, there's the "Café des 2 Moulins," where much of "Amélie" was filmed — the perfect place to end a perfect day with a superb glass of wine. Santé!

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