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Sahara Travel Report - Bir El Hasz

The Sahara Trek Begins

Tuesday, November 16

It was rarely more exciting to need the toilet at night — or rather, to head behind a dune. The moonlight gently illuminated the surrounding dunes and I had absolutely no idea where I actually was. But it was thrilling.

After a very cold, starry night, I wake up to a glorious sunrise. The sleeping bag is covered in dew. So, where's the toilet now? I decide on the third dune to the left, and it becomes clear at the latest now — this is going to be an extraordinary journey — not a vacation. But that's exactly what we had wanted.

Breakfast in the Desert

The campfire is already burning again, coffee and tea have been brewed. Achmed is making fresh bread. The dough he kneaded goes directly onto the embers and is covered by them as well. The Sahara oven, so to speak. Just a short while later, he takes out the freshly baked bread and vigorously beats off the sand with a cloth. Steffi has already fetched fig jam, cheese and other treats from her tour box, and to my surprise, we have a really good breakfast.

Saddling Up as the Caravan Sets Off

Barely finished, we saddle the desert ships — in this case dromedaries — break camp and off we go through the Sahara heading south. Walking at first, because the grumbling dromedaries still seem a bit suspicious to me, and they're quite tall on top of that. Along the way, we find historical ostrich shells and are always on the lookout for ancient arrowheads.

Filling Up on Water

Halfway through the route, our 9 desert ships are "refueled" once more and our water supplies are loaded up before the "great" desert.

After a good 3 hours, we reach our first stage in the Bir El Hasz area (named after a nearby well). Mohammed and Achmed search for a suitable campsite. Then it's time to collect firewood, chop tomatoes, cucumbers, white cabbage and onions for a fresh, delicious salad — again with freshly baked bread. We wash the dishes with sand, by the way. Scrub hard, wipe out — done. Fruit for dessert and some chocolate. Why it doesn't melt here remains one of the desert's mysteries.

Night Camp at Bir El Hasz

On today's holiday — the Feast of the Sacrifice is being celebrated — friends and acquaintances of our Bedouins come for dinner. Riding mopeds through the desert sand — we are impressed! The Feast of the Sacrifice naturally includes a roasted lamb, and as if it were the most natural thing, the Bedouins offer us a particularly tasty piece: grilled innards straight from the fire! I give it a try — well... it was my personal "jungle challenge."

All in all, it turns out to be a lively evening with drumming and singing, and once again it is a very cold one...

Continue Reading the Sahara Travel Report

Day three in the Sahara Desert - Tunisia - El Similete.

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