Sahara Trip Report – El Biben

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A Day in the Dunes of the Sahara near El Biben

Dune photos in the Sahara near El Biben with rocky terrain

Thursday, November 18

Today we tackle one of the longest stages. From the high dunes we first cross rocky terrain before reaching a sandy, fairly evenly vegetated dune landscape again. The area is called El Biben.

Sand as Far as the Eye Can See

Sand dunes of the Tunisian Sahara with sparse desert shrubs in the foreground under a clear morning sky

Vast orange dune field without vegetation under deep blue sky in the Tunisian Sahara

Dromedary silhouetted against the sunset in the Sahara.

Today I ride the second leg again. It gives you plenty of opportunity to let the landscape pass by like a film and simply enjoy it.
Amid these magnificent sand dunes we set up camp this time for two days. Time to soak in the scenery and relax.
My worry about getting bored out here in the Sahara was completely unfounded. On the contrary — time flies by.

Friday, November 19

After a cool night — our first in the Berber tent — perfect weather awaits us. Gorgeous blue sky, a light breeze and about 23 degrees. Ideal for sunbathing and photo excursions. The first camera in the group gave up this morning — sand damage!!

The red wine stain on my trousers from two days ago has vanished by now — very handy, the sand and sun out here ;-)

Sand-covered sleeping spot in the Sahara.

Coffee Break in the Sahara

A cappuccino on a high sand dune in the Sahara. — Coffee break among the high dunes

To write my reports I make myself comfortable on a dune, listen to chillout music and relax. Just as my resting pulse is approaching zero, Steffi comes by and serves a cappuccino with cream — how awesome is that on day five in the middle of the Sahara???

Inhabitants of the Sahara

A small but highly venomous scorpion. — A small but highly venomous scorpion

In between, Achmed finds us a very small yet all the more venomous scorpion. We discover smaller spiders and darkling beetles. We also find a fennec fox burrow, but sadly not its occupant. My wife Dany then spots a small desert gecko under a rock.

Camp Life in the Sahara

The camp amid the dunes. — The camp amid the dunes

Gathering wood for the fire. — Gathering wood for the fire

Preparing the bread dough. — ...preparing the bread dough

"Washing" dishes — the cookware is scrubbed clean with sand. — "Washing" dishes

Relaxing on the dune. — Relaxing on the dune

Tracking Footprints in the Sahara

5 photos: Various tracks in the sand of the Sahara.

Small animal tracks run up the slope of a Sahara dune – desert shrubs in the background, Tunisia

Clear footprints lead up a sand dune through rippled terrain of the Tunisian Sahara

Delicate snake or lizard tracks in fine Sahara sand – intricate lines in close-up detail

Spiral grass tuft traces in the Sahara sand – a grass blade has drawn circular patterns in the wind

Photo 6: Dany brings back the young dromedary

Evening Atmosphere in the Sahara

The dunes of the Sahara turn reddish. — The dunes turn reddish

The sun goes down. — Then the sun goes down

Cosy evening by the campfire in the Sahara. — Cosy evening by the campfire

The full moon with halo outshines the stars. — The full moon outshines the stars

Shortly before sunset it is time for the nightly dromedary round-up. Despite having their front legs tied together, the animals walk — or rather hop — surprisingly far from camp. Some are driven back by hunger, but the rest we have to go and collect. We then enjoy the ensuing sunset to the fullest.

From El Biben to Tuar Azul

Saturday, November 20

After loading the dromedaries we gradually leave the high sand dunes behind. Along the way we encounter a caravan of French travellers and a white dromedary — a Meheri, a Tunisian racing dromedary. These camels have the privilege of never having to carry loads and are simply very elegant.

Group photo of our caravan in the Sahara. — The entire caravan

The caravan moves through the dunes of the Sahara. — ...the caravan moves on

We encounter a caravan in the Sahara. — We meet a caravan

A white racing dromedary — Meheri. — A precious racing dromedary

Evening Atmosphere in the Sahara – Tuar Azul

Dromedary backlit against blue sky over the Sahara.

Teapot in the campfire — the flames blaze.

Then we enter lower dune landscapes. In between there is also a lot of rocky terrain. In this setting we find the next campsite (Tuar Azul). Small sand dunes, plenty of rock and hardly any wood. The small bush remnants we find here burn like tinder — so we have to gather a huge amount — hard labour!

One of our dromedaries, even with reinforced leg hobbles, can barely be kept from pursuing a herd of female dromedaries nearby — in the end it practically crawls towards them...