October 17

Today we take a trip across the island to Cayo Guillermo to the most famous beach here, Playa Pilar (named after Hemingway's yacht). The road takes us about 40 km along a paved track (partially severely damaged)  through mangrove forests (warning: endless mosquitoes). We pass flamingos, and vultures and eagles can also be spotted here. Cayo Guillermo is about 13 square kilometers and consists of mangroves and marshland. Here you'll also find the Delfinario (which we skip as we oppose dolphins in captivity) and the marina, from where you can also take boat trips into the mangroves. Hemingway describes these islands in the novel Islands in the Stream (the archipelago includes about 400 islands by the way).

A wooden boardwalk takes you over the overgrown sand dunes, which tower house-high, comfortably to Playa Pilar. Upon arrival, we're greeted by a brilliant white beach with turquoise water. After a refreshing swim, we take a long beach walk. There's also a restaurant and a bar here. Unfortunately, a gigantic hotel is being built here as well, after which there likely won't be any space left.