October 14
We get up early, hoping to enjoy the view from the Iglesia Monserrate over Matanzas and the Yumuri Valley. Unfortunately, we cannot find the church even after searching for quite a while. So we decide to drive on and make a short detour to Varadero, Cuba's number one beach destination and tourist stronghold. We pass the now-unoccupied checkpoint on the bridge that used to prevent Cubans from entering Varadero. In the past, Cubans were forbidden from visiting this resort area. We drive up and down the Avenida de Playa, stroll through a souvenir market, and are convinced that Varadero boasts 20 km of the finest sand in all of Cuba — scientists supposedly confirmed this!
After a quick refreshment at the Bodeguita del Medio (yes, this bar shares the same name as the world-famous one in Havana and a similar style — at least the color scheme and the countless signatures on the walls are the same), we continue toward Santa Clara.
Cuevas de Bellamar
Another worthwhile excursion along the way that we did not do is the Cuevas de Bellamar — a cave that is one of the oldest tourist attractions in Cuba. With illuminated passages and paved walkways — so not really our kind of thing.
Cardenas
Our next stop is Cardenas — the city of flags and bicycles with unfortunately very dilapidated buildings. However, this city boasts one of the oldest and most beautiful structures in Cuba: the 1846 Catedral de la Immaculada Concepción on Parque Colón, featuring two hexagonal towers in neo-baroque style, a domed tower, stained glass windows, and a Columbus statue in front. Cardenas also has a market hall dating from 1859. We think this is a city with real character that you should definitely drive through and make a few photo stops — just watch out for the truly numerous cyclists! We have never seen so many bicycles in any other city.
On the Road to Santa Clara
Now it's another 120 km toward Santa Clara, passing numerous sugarcane plantations, state farms, and small villages on straight, long, narrow roads with all kinds of traffic — bicycles, pedestrians, horse-drawn carriages, dogs, goats, trucks, people-carrying trucks (folks just stand on the flatbed, naturally without seatbelts ;-)), vintage cars, buses, and much more — let yourself be surprised.
Accommodation in Santa Clara
Our hotel for today is the Santa Clara Los Caneyes (Ave. Eucaliptos y Circunvalación, Santa Clara, Cuba — booked via Logitravel). We have a small bungalow, and the hotel grounds are set in a beautifully landscaped garden with some animals, a pool, and a bar. The food is very good!
Continue in the Cuba travel guide: Santa Clara to Cayo Coco
