We are dedicating an entire chapter to the topic of rental cars in Cuba because it truly is a unique experience!
If you are planning an individually organized trip, you need to book your rental car well, well in advance. Unfortunately, we did not do this in time – nobody told us and there was nothing written about it anywhere – and we initially had to accept statements like: "...no, rental cars won't be available again for at least 3 months," "...you're too late, I can't even enter that into the system anymore," "...Cuba is so popular right now, I've only been issuing rejections for weeks – no chance."
You should know that there is essentially only one car rental company in Cuba: as is almost always the case when there is money to be made from tourists, it is the state, operating under the following names: Cubacar, REX, Havanautos, or via rent car (Gaviota). We contacted all of them four weeks before departure. From major providers like DerTour to agencies specializing in Cuba and even the local rental companies – we left no stone unturned.

Our savior was avenTOURa, whom we will keep recommending throughout this guide.
Before we get started, please be aware that the condition and quality of a Geely (a Chinese copycat brand) is usually very, very poor. You can even feel the rainwater splashing through the floor panel! The first thing we had to do was inflate the tires. And you are not safe from "scams" either. Once you know about them, you can use them to your advantage. Here is the story: We had to pay for the first tank of fuel and return the car empty – fair enough. After about 15 km outside Havana, the first bar on our fuel gauge had already disappeared – we were surprised, of course, and the reserve warning light came on relatively quickly too. We were puzzled by the high fuel consumption, but we had no experience with a Geely. During our trip, we asked a taxi driver about it and he told us that the employees at the rental stations tamper with the tank gauge and the supposedly empty tank is not actually empty. The remaining fuel is then siphoned off after the car is returned.
So: when the reserve light comes on and the consumption seems relatively high, it does not mean the tank is actually empty – it usually lasts quite a while longer.

Here are some important tips on booking, costs, and picking up your rental car:

Costs:
In addition to the actual rental costs, which start from around 28 euros per day depending on category and season, there are additional costs that must be paid on-site:

Insurance:
We paid an additional 15 CUC per day on-site (cash or credit card) for comprehensive insurance – this can vary depending on the vehicle class. The insurance generally covers all damage (accident, fire, etc.) – however, theft of tires or the radio/CD player is excluded. The insurance also does not include personal accident coverage, and the liability limit is relatively low – if you have higher safety requirements, you should consider increasing the liability limit.
If the accident was your fault, you will have to pay an excess (approx. 350 euros). By the way, every accident must be documented by the police and reported immediately to the rental company's 24-hour hotline!

Additional costs that may apply:

• Airport pickup (approx. 20 CUC service fee)
• So-called return fees when dropping off at a different station: approx. 35 CUC – 300 CUC! Our pickup station was Havana; drop-off station Cienfuegos, which cost: 35 CUC
• An additional driver costs extra per day (approx. 3 CUC per day or a flat rate of 10 – 30 CUC)
• In some cases you also have to pay for the first tank of fuel (approx. 50 CUC for a small car) since the car must be returned empty – any remaining fuel will not be refunded.

These figures naturally vary depending on the rental car category and provider and are meant as a rough guide only. You should request a detailed cost breakdown from your booking agent in your home country if they have not already provided one.

Penalties for violations:
You should also strictly follow the rules, as every violation comes with a fee, for example:

• Exceeding the rental period (the standard daily rate + approx. 20% of the daily rate as a "penalty fee")
• Soiling or losing the rental agreement (approx. 50 – 100 CUC)
• Missing a scheduled maintenance appointment (approx. 100 CUC)
• Returning the vehicle in a dirty condition (approx. 25 CUC)
• Dirty or damaged seats (approx. 200 CUC)
• Attaching items to the vehicle (approx. 100 CUC)
• Overloading the vehicle (approx. 50 CUC)
• Towing another vehicle (approx. 100 CUC)
• Etc.

Deposit
You will also need to pay a deposit (from approx. 150 CUC for a small car) – this can be done in cash or by credit card (a credit card fee may sometimes apply). The amount varies by vehicle category and will be refunded in cash or released on your card if the car is returned in good condition.
We had a small car, a Geely from Cubacar. The costs were provided in advance by avenTOURa and listed on the voucher. However, we know that some tourists have had surprises on the spot. If these costs are not listed, definitely ask your tour operator again or be prepared for additional charges!
Apart from the first tank of fuel, you can generally pay everything by credit card.

Picking up your rental car on-site
There are not many rental stations on the island and parking in Havana is limited. Check Google Maps carefully to find the rental station location, or have the car delivered to your hotel – as we did through avenTOURa.
If the car is not being delivered, allow plenty of time! We have heard of wait times of up to 3 hours at the rental office between arrival and handover. We also needed almost an hour ourselves. Returning the car, on the other hand, was relatively quick!

Important tips when picking up your rental car:

• Bring your driver's license (national and international), credit card, and of course your passport, plus the corresponding voucher.
• You must be at least 21 years old.
• The most important thing is to keep the rental agreement (original and copy) in a safe place. It is urgently needed for returning the car and must also be presented in case of defects, breakdowns, etc. By the way, every defect must be reported immediately – see also penalties for violations.
• When paying the deposit by credit card, make absolutely sure the receipt says "Autorización" and not "Venta."
• Also ask about the next scheduled inspection. When the indicated mileage is reached, the car must be returned to a rental station – missing the maintenance deadline will cost you as well – see also penalties for violations.
• This may seem obvious but is particularly important in Cuba: inspect the rental car thoroughly and we recommend taking photos of any scratches, dents, etc. with your phone and noting them on the contract. If the antenna is missing – don't be surprised, that is usually the case. If there is still one on the car, it will be gone by the time you return it – so better unscrew it right away and keep it safe.
• In addition to damage on the car, check for a properly inflated spare tire and the included tools.
• Check the fuel gauge.
• Best to take a short test drive as well.

On the road with your rental car
Since there are very few cars in Cuba, driving is stress-free. On the Autopista, you will encounter more pedestrians, animals, and horse-drawn carriages than cars. Even in the cities it is quieter than back home, but there are still a few things to keep in mind:

• Speed limits: 50 km/h in towns, 80 km/h on country roads, 100 km/h on the motorway (Autopista).
• Cuba has inadequate road lighting, and because roads are also used as walkways for livestock herds etc., driving at night should be avoided if possible. There are also many horse-drawn carriages, cyclists, and pedestrians everywhere.
• The Autopista is usually in good condition. However, it does not hurt to watch out for potholes, which are more frequent on certain stretches. Animals are also regularly herded across the Autopista and other roads. Side roads are sometimes in very poor condition – in heavy rain, it is best to ask a local whether the road is passable.
• Beware of railway crossings – in Cuba they are unguarded and usually bumpy.
• There are not many gas stations in Cuba, so fill up in good time. Rental cars usually require a higher-grade fuel called "Gasolina Especial" (higher octane), and this is not available at every station. Larger cities generally have at least one station that carries it.

Emergency / Breakdown / Accident
 

• In case of an accident, always have a police report drawn up.
• Defects or damage to the rental vehicle must be reported to the rental company without delay (within 24 hours). For claims, you must submit the police report (PNR), receipts for any costs incurred, a copy of the rental agreement, and all other documents relating to the damage – all in writing, on-site, and within 5 days! Failure to comply will void your right to make a claim!
• If the police report determines that you were at fault, you must pay the excess agreed upon in the contract.

Alcohol and Drugs

• Car insurance in Cuba does not cover negligently caused damage, e.g., driving under the influence of alcohol!
• Leaving the vehicle key in the car also voids your insurance coverage.
• Do not pay any fines directly to police officers – only pay at the rental agency.

Parking

Necessity is the mother of invention, and some Cubans will charge a parking fee for otherwise free public parking spaces (between 1 and 2 CUC). It does not cost much and your car will be watched. Hotel parking is usually free. Nevertheless, you should ask at the hotel when checking in exactly where to park. By the way, you are required (per insurance terms) to park the car in a safe and well-lit location.

Picking up hitchhikers We met so many Cubans who had been waiting in vain for the bus or simply did not have a car. We gave some of them a ride, and even if you do not speak Spanish, it can be quite an interesting experience. It is a perfect way to connect with locals and you might even get the occasional insider tip.
When in doubt or due to poor road conditions or heavy rain, leave the rental car and take a taxi instead – it does not cost much and is definitely safer!

As a general rule: something always happens and nothing is more annoying than stress on vacation. So always plan in some buffer time, even if your route planner says otherwise!

Taxis 
There are various providers, such as Cubataxi (yellow sign with black lettering): First km 1 CUC, each additional km 0.40 – 0.75 euros – at night there is a surcharge. The white, non-air-conditioned taxis are about 20% cheaper.
There are also taxis run by locals that are not state-operated. The rule here: bargain.
You can also find 3-wheeled bici-taxis (1–3 CUC) or Coco-Taxis (fixed price 3 CUC – 6 CUC) – prices as of Oct. 2015

Horse-drawn carriages
Carriages are very affordable and often have fixed prices – just say where you want to go. Nearby destinations cost about 1–3 CUC. In tourist centers, a carriage ride costs a maximum of 25 CUC per hour – prices as of Oct. 2015

Viazul Bus
The Viazul buses are extremely punctual and fully air-conditioned. They also cover longer distances. It is advisable to reserve seats in advance at: www.viazul.com

Conectando Cuba
These are tourist buses with multilingual tour guides. They run from city to city and also stop at hotels. On long-distance routes, you even get food and can watch movies.

Train
Unfortunately, we cannot say much about the train – what we have heard from other travelers is that it tends to be rather unreliable.