by Kai Hockenjos

Lisbon, Portugal's capital, once the wealthiest city in Europe, was reduced to rubble in just nine seconds by a devastating earthquake in 1755 and subsequently rebuilt under the Marquis of Pombal. Today it presents itself as a vibrant metropolis whose captivating beauty enchants visitors from around the world. Kai Hockenjos spent a perfect day in the City of Seven Hills on the banks of the Tagus.

If you want to enjoy breakfast right inside a landmark, hop on the popular tram (Line 15) to Belém and head to the 'Antiga Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém' at Rua de Belém 84-88. There, master pastry chefs have been baking the world-famous Pastéis de Belém since 1837, following the closely guarded original recipe of the Hieronymite monks — sinfully delicious custard tarts.

Just a stone's throw away stands the spectacular 'Mosteiro dos Jerónimos', the Jerónimos Monastery — a cultural and architectural masterpiece. Built in honor of Vasco da Gama, this 16th-century monastery is considered the finest example of Manueline style, Portugal's extravagantly ornate take on Late Gothic architecture. A highlight: the romantic cloister with its breathtaking details from the great Age of Discovery. Less than 15 minutes' walk away, right on the Tagus River, the imposing Monument to the Discoveries 'Padrão dos Descobrimentos' and the magnificent Belém Tower 'Torre de Belém' evoke memories of Portugal's glorious era of exploration.

Back in the lanes of the Baixa: on either side of the triumphal boulevard 'Rua Augusta' you'll find countless small shops, grand boutiques, modern shopping temples, and old-fashioned general stores. Things get more extravagant up in the 'Bairro Alto', the upper town, which you can reach in spectacular fashion via the 'Elevador de Santa Justa'. This freestanding cast-iron passenger elevator was designed by Raul Mesnier du Ponsard, a student of Gustave Eiffel, and opened in 1902. Its two wooden cabins, each holding 25 passengers, overcome a height difference of 32 meters.

After a light bite in the Bairro Alto — ideally at Café 'A Brasileira' (Rua Garrett 120), where Portugal's literary giant Fernando Pessoa used to sit — you can enjoy a particularly delicious meal. Afterwards, take a stroll through the winding alleys up to the highest reaches of the quarter. There, on the northern edge (Rua Dom Pedro V), lies what may be the world's most beautiful pastry shop: 'Pastelaria San Roque'. Few tourists stumble upon it, as it looks unassuming from outside, yet inside it reveals an Art Nouveau dream from the last century.

Take a taxi (they're cheap) to the nearest metro station and head to 'Oriente' station at the former EXPO grounds and the fantastic Oceanarium. Admission costs around ten euros and is worth every cent!

Feeling hungry? Head back to the city center and down to the river. Take the ferry from 'Cais do Sodré' across the Tagus to 'Cacilhas'. There you can enjoy especially delicious — and much cheaper than in Lisbon — fresh fish and all kinds of seafood. Full and happy? Then it's time for a touch of melancholy.

Back in Lisbon, the legendary old tram '28' takes you straight into the heart of the city — the Alfama, the oldest neighborhood with its jumbled houses and narrow lanes. There, every evening in countless bars, 'Fado' is played: Portugal's melancholic singing tradition that belongs to Lisbon as much as tango belongs to Buenos Aires, and that touches you deep in the soul.