by Kai Hockenjos

"Here we don't live, here we work," says an old Portuguese proverb about Porto, Portugal's second-largest city, also fondly referred to as the "capital of the north." Porto is undoubtedly the country's productive center. Wealth, industrial and economic power are concentrated here, with influence reaching deep into Lisbon's political circles — which is why many of the roughly 350,000 residents of this port city like to call it Portugal's "secret capital." Porto was likely settled as early as pre-Roman times, on the left bank of the Douro River. This is also why people say the city gave the small country at Europe's westernmost tip its name: from the Latin words "portus" (harbor) and "cale" (settlement) came "Portucale" — today's Portugal.

You can feel it — at this place, you are walking on historic ground. "Infante Dom Henrique o Navegador," better known as "Henry the Navigator," was born here on March 4, 1394, and throughout the city there are traces of the former Prince of Portugal, who led the country to its greatest glory through the expeditions he commissioned. Under his rule, Portugal became the world's leading maritime power, acquiring colonies in Brazil, India, Africa, Arabia, and China, and was once Europe's wealthiest nation.

He himself, as history records, only set foot on the planks of a ship once — when at the age of 21, he sailed from Porto on a successful expedition to North Africa and captured the wealthy Moroccan trading city of Ceuta. Legend has it that this conquest also gave rise to the nickname "Tripeiros" for Porto's residents. Tripeiros translates to "tripe eaters," which is by no means taken as an insult in Porto. On the contrary, the Portuenses are proud of their epochal sacrifice: for his maritime army, Henry the Navigator needed plenty of food on board in 1415, so the citizens of Porto gave the sailors all the city's meat for their ships — leaving only the innards (tripas) for themselves. To this day, you can find the specialty "Tripas à moda do Porto," Porto-style tripe, on many Portuguese menus.

Only the older generation still quotes the opening proverb; these days, Porto enjoys a vibrant cultural scene. The picturesque beauty of this city on the banks of the Douro, with its stately baroque buildings, winding alleyways, and steel bridges, is hard to resist. Last but not least, Porto's most famous export — port wine, named after the city itself — is reason enough for a visit to this enchanting European metropolis.

Since 1996, Porto's old town, the "Ribeira," has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is under preservation order. It is the oldest and most impressive quarter of the city, once founded by sailors and fishermen who settled on the right bank of the Douro and simply named the district "river" (Ribeira). Today, the Ribeira is the entertainment district of the city. Traditional cafés line up next to old taverns, whose kitchens exude the most delicious aromas. Porto's culinary art is considered the finest in the country. Not only is the Portuguese national dish "Bacalhau" (salted and dried cod) prepared here in countless delectable ways, but the products of the nearby ocean are also combined at the highest level with fresh regional produce. On the menus, you'll find salt cod fritters and grilled squid alongside puff pastry bites with venison or tender Douro lamb. Equally tantalizing is the popular kale soup "Caldo Verde," served with a special corn bread. Back in the old town alleys, you stroll past antique general stores and elegant boutiques. Many shops radiate a nostalgic charm, their facades adorned with the classic "Azulejos" — ubiquitous hand-painted tiles that aesthetically illustrate the history and culture of this former seafaring nation.

Moored right in front of the vaulted cellars of the port wine distilleries are the "Rabelos," colorfully painted port wine boats from days gone by. The world of port wine is fascinating and steeped in tradition — unfortunately, abroad, "Porto" is often regarded as merely a sweet liqueur, which does not do justice to the complexity of these fine wines. A guided tour through one of the many cellars is highly recommended, as it offers great insight into the production methods and the different varieties.

An aged "Tawny," for instance, has an amber-like color and evokes dried fruits, nuts, figs, or chocolate. The "Vintage" is the king among port wines, the expression of the finest grapes from exceptional years. A Vintage is only produced when the grapes achieve outstanding quality, which sometimes happens only once every ten years. After two years of cask aging, the maturation process continues in the bottle. A fine Vintage is best enjoyed after at least 15 or 20 years of aging.