From Funchal to Camacha
Our first stop today is Camacha. On the way there you'll also find the famous Palheiro Gardens at about 600 m altitude. Since we had already visited the Monte Palace garden, we decided to save the entrance fee of over 10 euros - though it's said to be well worth a visit.
The village of Camacha sits nearly 700 m high and is surrounded by terraced fields with fruit trees and deep valleys. A large part of the population still makes a living from furniture and basket weaving - you can buy these in so-called ateliers, the Vimeiros, or at the wicker market Café Relogio by the main square, the Largo da Achada. The Café Relogio is definitely worth a visit. In the basement you can watch the basket weavers at work, and there's really much more than you might expect that can be made from willow.
On the main square you'll also find a charming church and a viewpoint. On this large square, Largo da Achada, there's also a monument honoring the first football match in Portugal in 1875, which took place right here. An Englishman brought a ball from home and formed two teams.
Camacha to Canical
Our route continues through mountains and valleys to two viewpoints: the Pico Portela viewpoint (669 m), which was partly shrouded in fog - not uncommon here. When the fog lifts, you get a magnificent view of Eagle Rock, Penha de Aguia. Worth mentioning is that from here, a 12.5 km "path for all" leads to Faja dos Rolos - suitable for hikers, bikers, and even wheelchair users. The second viewpoint lies just below Miradouro Portela and opens the way to Porto da Cruz.
On the road to Canical lies Santo da Serra, reportedly home to the summer residences of former sugar barons and other wealthy residents. There's a small zoo and at the back of the gardens a Miradouro dos Ingleses with panoramic views. But our route leads us onward, and before continuing to Canical we stop once more at Pico do Facho to watch planes taking off, as visibility is better today.
In Canical we take a coffee break. This is where the free trade port is located. Canical was once known for fishing, boat building, and whaling. You can learn about the whaling history at the Museu da Baleia (Whale Museum). Bars and restaurants line the harbor road, where you'll also find a small beach.
Sao Lourenco Nature Reserve
There's also a marine protected area here, and occasionally you can spot Mediterranean monk seals.
Now we continue to Ponta de Sao Lourenco, the headland beyond Canical.
Here a stunning landscape awaits us - barren yet dramatic, with bizarre rock formations.
From the hiking car park above Baia de Abra at the end of the road, you can take a 3-hour hike to the island's tip and back. From the Baia da Abra viewpoint you can see the Ilha Desertas, the island Ilheu de Agostinho, and Ilheu de Fora (home to the oldest lighthouse on Madeira). Even better are the views from the double peak, the 125 m high Ponta do Furado, which you can climb. About a third of the way along, there's a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the rugged north coast with steep cliffs and fascinating rock formations.
The Ponta do Sao Lourenco nature reserve is the easternmost peninsula of Madeira. At 9 km long and 2 km wide, it's a beautiful area that was declared a nature reserve in 1982 to protect its flora, fauna, and geological heritage.
The natural vegetation in this reserve is highly distinctive and unique. It remains almost untouched, with an enormously rich occurrence of native plants that thrive only in this reserve. But it's not just the flora that impresses - the reserve is also home to a wide variety of bird species.
From Sao Lourenco to Porto da Cruz
After our hike we drive past Porto da Cruz, which impresses with its harbor, waterfront promenade, black sand beaches, an old sugar mill, and rustic wine cellars.
We continue to Faial. The village is surrounded by vine terraces and orchards and sits at the foot of a 600 m high coastal mountain, Penha de Aguia - Eagle Rock, which truly lives up to its name as it resembles an eagle from a distance. From the summit you get a wonderful view of the north coast. If you like, you can also visit Casa de Cha do Faial with its lovely rooftop terrace. The small church is also well worth seeing, and there's a Balneario (public pool). For go-kart fans, there's even a modern kart track here.
From Porto da Cruz to Santana
Our last stop for today is Santana. We take the old route to Santana. Along this stretch you'll find wonderful viewpoints of the coast and mountains. If you have some time, the detour is definitely worthwhile.
Now more about Santana, arguably the most famous village on the north coast. In June 2011, the Santana district was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The village owes its fame primarily to the Casas de Colmo, the thatched colorful houses, of which reportedly about 100 still exist in this region. The Casas de Colmo somehow remind us of Asterix and Obelix and are apparently of Celtic origin. It's worth visiting the ones near the town hall, where you'll find the tourist information office, several souvenir shops, and a weaving workshop.
Today, some of these old houses have been extended and are inhabited again. Not all are as colorful as the restored ones by the town hall, though.
Santana is also home to the Parque Tematico da Madeira, which explores the history and culture of Madeira.
Shopping Madeira Mall in Funchal
In the evening we visit Shopping Madeira, the largest shopping center on Madeira (106 shops), located above Funchal. It's open until 10 pm. Here you'll also find cafés, a cinema, restaurants, and lovely views of Funchal.
