We drive from Funchal along the coast via Ribeira Brava, Ponta do Sol and Calheta. The drive itself is already a small adventure, as the roads are nothing like those in Funchal. We arrive at the marshy highland plateau Paul da Serra (mountain moor) at 1,500 m altitude. The Paul da Serra plateau is a highland moorland on whose northern side the evergreen Laurissilva forest lies. Dense fog is common here, caused by evaporation above the forest. Strong winds — as we experience ourselves — are also typical of Paul da Serra's climate, and naturally it's no longer quite as warm as in Funchal.
Paul da Serra was originally planned as the site for Madeira's airport, but the fog and wind proved too great a disadvantage — fortunately, as this unique landscape was preserved.
Before starting our hike, we pass the Jungle Rain Café, a restaurant decorated like a jungle with moving monkeys, elephants, snakes and lions. Anyone wanting to fuel up before the hike can grab a snack or even a full meal here.

We continue to Rabacal, a nature reserve located in the west of the island. From here you have a wonderful view over the valleys of Madeira — a true masterpiece of nature.

We finally arrive at the hiking car park, located right on the road towards Porto Moniz. It's the starting point for our hike to the 25 Fontes and the Risco Waterfall.

25 Fontes

From the car park you first walk to the forest house. From here we start by heading to the 25 waterfalls, also known as the 25 springs. First you descend countless steps, then follow a small levada where you can even spot trout. Before a stone bridge, you turn right into a small valley basin. From the overhanging cliff face, 25 natural small waterfalls cascade down. It's a simply beautiful hike through lush greenery with many panoramic views. This hike is very popular and you frequently have to make way for oncoming hikers on the narrow levada, but it's absolutely worth it as an introduction to Madeira's hiking trails!

Risco Waterfall

On the way back from the 25 Fontes hike, we take a detour to the Risco Waterfall. Here again you follow a small levada to the waterfall. You can get very close to it. The path is quite wide and follows the levada without any significant ascent or descent. The levada then disappears into a small tunnel that is unfortunately closed to hikers for safety reasons after rockfalls — it would lead behind the waterfall. A shame, but we hope it will be repaired soon. Oh, and there are also friendly birds here (similar to our sparrows) that appreciate a crumb from your packed lunch.
Back at the forest house, we take the minibus for a few euros back to the car park 2 km away to save time.

On the way back we drive via Porto Moniz to visit the two viewpoints around Fonte da Pedra — unfortunately without any view, as everything was completely shrouded in fog.

We also make a short stop at Seixal, which sits picturesquely on a rocky promontory with gardens, vineyards and a natural ocean swimming pool.

Also beautiful here is the Véu da Noiva viewpoint slightly east of Seixal, offering a magnificent view of the north coast with the old, disused coastal road — a waterfall now crashes onto it, making the road impassable.

It's getting dark and we take the fastest route back to Funchal, where we visit our beloved Christmas market once again — cheers!