Our Honeymoon Begins
March 19
The direct flight with United Airlines from Frankfurt to San Francisco takes 10 hours (-8 hours time difference). After nearly 2 hours at San Francisco Airport, we just barely make our connecting flight to Hawaii, which had been moved to a different gate on short notice. Another 5.5 hours and -2 hours time difference later, we reach our destination. Big Island in Hawaii is reached after nearly 24 hours of travel. Our March 19 now had 34 hours, and it was light for 24 of them.
We quickly pick up the rental car and head to the Hotel Kona Seaside/Kona Big Island 75 5646 Palani Road – Kailua Kona HI 96740.
A quick stroll along the promenade and a welcome drink at a cool bar — we simply couldn't resist.
Hapuna Beach
Hapuna Beach is the longest white sand beach on Big Island. It's well worth spending a beach day or making a swimming stop here. There is good parking available.
Pu'ukohola Heiau
Pu'ukohola Heiau is a historic site of the Hawaiian people from ancient times. There is a visitor center with an informational film and a massive stone wall where the sacred sites once stood.
Spencer Beach Park
At Spencer Beach Park near Kawaihae, we take a short break and enjoy the wonderful view of the beautiful beach.
Hawi Town
The town of Hawi could serve as a backdrop for a Western movie. We take a break here and enjoy a barbecue. We also make a quick detour to the Hawi Church Sacred Heart.
Kapa'au
In Kapa'au, you encounter very few tourists and once again feel like you're standing in a Western movie set. Here stands a statue of Kamehameha (the first King of Hawaii) from 1880.
The Kohala District
From the north coast, we now drive across the rolling Kohala Mountains on Highway 250 to the Saddle Road. The highest point of the route sits at 1,086 meters above sea level. Along the way, there are magnificent views of the mountains, ancient craters, and the coastline. The entire area is dominated by pastures belonging to the largest privately owned ranch in the United States, the Parker Ranch, and thus by lush green. In between, there are lakes and large cacti everywhere. On a clear day — and we had one — you also get beautiful views of Mauna Kea & Mauna Loa.
Waimea
In Waimea, we fill up the tank before heading to our next stop. For anyone continuing toward the Saddle Road, this is a good tip — the last gas stations for many miles are here. The town of Waimea is strongly influenced by the Parker Ranch, and there are several upscale restaurants. Every year in August, the Parker Ranch Round-Up takes place. More information at www.parker-ranch.com
Waipio Valley
A stunning view of Waipio Valley awaits at the Waipio Lookout. The first Polynesian settlers are said to have made their home in this "Valley of the Kings." The road down is reportedly the steepest in the USA, though driving down is officially not permitted. If you can't resist, you should at least have four-wheel drive. There are guided tours by bus or horseback into the valley; on foot, it's 1.7 miles to the beach. Hikers appreciate the unspoiled nature in the valley. The few residents live without electricity or running water.
Saddle Road
The direct connection via Saddle Road between the west and east coasts of Big Island is now quite drivable. From the west to Mauna Kea, parts are even well-paved. A few winding sections make the drive interesting, and some potholes demand attention.
Onizuka Center for International Astronomy
A stop at the Onizuka Visitor Center for International Astronomy. A half-hour break to acclimatize should be enough — since we're very tight on time. A bit longer would be gentler on the body, after all, we're driving up to over 4,200 meters. It's never boring at the station. There's plenty of information about astronomy and Mauna Kea. Later on the way back, many telescopes are set up for visitors, and scientists explain a great deal about the distant galaxies visible through them. The air up here is as clear as almost nowhere else in the world.
Then we drive up to the 4,205 m (13,796 ft) summit of Mauna Kea and enjoy the incredible sunset above the clouds of Hawaii. A tripod and a warm jacket are not unnecessary, as there is usually still some snow up here. There are several observatories at the top, though very few are accessible to visitors. The air is unbelievably clear. Hawaii is so remote from the rest of the world that the concept of air pollution is virtually unknown up here. The road is paved except for a few kilometers, and quite a few cars without four-wheel drive have made it to the top just fine.
Continue reading the Hawaii trip report: Exploring Southwest Big Island.
