A quick visit to Hawaii's oldest church. The present-day Mokuaikaua Church was completed in 1837. Its walls are built from lava rock. King Kamehameha II, Liholiho, initially permitted the Christians to settle and build in 1820 for one year. The permit was never officially extended.

75 5713 Alii Drive – Kailua Kona – Hawaii 96740 www.mokuaikaua.org

Before heading south, we grab breakfast and stroll through the nearby shopping center. On the ocean side, damage from the tsunami triggered by the earthquake off Japan is still visible.

At the Royal Kona Museum and Coffee Mill you can sample the different coffee varieties from the Kona Coffee Factory for free and explore the museum as well as the lava tunnel on the grounds. The terrace offers a wonderful view of the coastline. Our favorite coffee: Macadamia Vanilla.

At the southern tip of the Ka Lae peninsula, strong winds blow and powerful surf crashes against the shore. The steep cliffs are a popular spot for cliff diving.

A short break in the town of Na'alehu with its crumbling old cinema and a tasty snack bar next door. We stock up on sandwiches and continue toward Kilauea.

At Punalu'u we take a break at the Black Sand Beach and enjoy our packed lunch on this gorgeous stretch of shore.

Shortly past the Visitor Center, steam vents appear again and again along the road, and a first trail leads to the caldera rim with a view of the smoking Halema'uma'u crater.

The Jaggar Museum houses an interesting exhibition on the events at Kilauea, along with seismographs recording real-time data. From the viewing platform you get a fantastic look into the caldera and at the closed-off Halema'uma'u crater, which is currently emitting toxic fumes.

On the way to the Chain of Craters Road we make a quick stop and walk through the Thurston Lava Tube for about 20 minutes. Around 500 years ago, molten lava rushed down the slope here, carving out this long lava cave.

Along the Chain of Craters Road, as the name suggests, a series of extinct volcanic craters and vast cooled lava flows line the route. A partly surreal landscape captivates us. Along the way, the Kealakomo lookout is well worth a stop.

At the end of the road, after dark you can watch the activity of Pu'u 'O'o. Before the eruption cycle began in 1983, you could continue driving all the way to Hilo from here. Just before the road ends you will also find the Sea Arch. Don't forget a flashlight and binoculars! With luck you can see lava flowing into the ocean. During our visit the crater was unfortunately rather quiet. When volcanic activity sends a lava flow all the way to the sea, a boat tour from Hilo is a great option. Current conditions are available at the park's visitor center or online: https://www.usgs.gov/volcanoes/kilauea/volcano-updates

Finally, after dark we drive back to the Jaggar Museum to see the glow of the lava in the smoke — and it was absolutely worth it. An eerie atmosphere hangs over the mountain. And it's cold — don't forget your jacket!