October 13

Our destination for today is Matanzas.

We decide to skip Pinar del Río — the tobacco capital with its cigar factory and the City of Columns, said to have the most impressive colonial facades — as it is notorious for its hustlers (Jinteros). They reportedly force cars to stop with their bicycles and follow visitors all the way into the cigar factory. Truly pushy.

Since we need to make an unplanned stop in Havana (we forgot a charging cable at the hotel), this change of plans suits us perfectly. Back in Havana, we take the opportunity to explore the Havana Miramar-Playa neighborhood and the famous Avenida Quinta, also known as 5th Avenue. In the Habana Miramar-Playa district, the affluent quarter with its colonial mansions — largely restored thanks to the many embassies housed within — you'll find magnificent tree-lined avenues and grand villas. Also worth seeing here are the Museo del Ministerio del Interior (the secret service museum documenting assassination attempts on Fidel Castro), the Jardín Botánico Nacional, and of course the Tropicana.
We drive along the entire Malecón (seafront promenade) all the way to the western end of the city to our first hotel, Plaza Gran Caribe. Here we also visit the old Inglaterra, a magnificent inn dating back to 1875.

After actually getting our charging cable back at the hotel, we leave Havana heading toward Playas del Este, passing Cojímar, where Ernest Hemingway's residence is located — making it a place of pilgrimage. However, you can only view the house from the outside. We skip the stop and continue to the bathing beach of the locals, Playas del Este. Here we make a quick photo stop at the beach and a bit further on enjoy a refreshment at the Mirador de Bellomonte. From here you have a wonderful view of the entire region.

We continue along the coastal highway toward Matanzas, crossing Cuba's highest and longest bridge that spans the Valle de Yumurí, the Valley of the Royal Palms. This is where Alexander von Humboldt collected flowers and plants 200 years ago, and it truly is a stunning valley, lush and green. The Bacunayagua Bridge is approximately 300 meters high and 112 meters long. From the Mirador de Bacunayagua you have a spectacular view of the bridge, the valley, and the circling vultures. Stopping here is an absolute must when visiting Cuba.

Our personal highlight of the day, however, is being able to save a hummingbird's life. It had gotten lost in the cafeteria of the Mirador de Bacunayagua and desperately searched for an exit at the glass windows until it finally collapsed on the floor, completely exhausted. We picked it up, brought it to safety, and provided sugar and flowers. A short while later it came to and flew away — we are confident it made a full recovery.

We are happy and continue our drive to the city of Matanzas, also known as the City of Bridges. They say this is the city that embodies the real Cuba, with its container port, colonial plaza, and an old town featuring various grand buildings, such as the Teatro Sauto — one of the oldest theaters in Cuba (currently under renovation). Personally, the city doesn't impress us much — it is very dirty, the streets are very narrow, and the air is polluted with exhaust fumes.  We therefore only take a short walk and drink a very strong mojito at the bar across from the Teatro Sauto and the historic fire station. A bar where the local scene apparently also gathers.

A beautiful building from 1902 with antique charm is our hotel, the HOTEL VELASCO (Calle Contreras e/Santa Teresa y Ayuntamiento Matanzas 40100, Cuba, booked via Logitravel) — by the way, we had room 22 even though there are only 17 rooms — that's because the former owner was superstitious and simply renumbered room 13 to 22. The rooms are small and windowless, but the building itself is absolutely worth seeing and the food is very good. The service was also exceptionally attentive!

Last but not least, we want to grab a drink with a fellow German couple we met during our trip. While looking for a bar, once again a "friend" appears who wants to be treated and "guides" us to a bar with a rooftop terrace. He promptly orders a beer for himself as well. After we don't engage in conversation with him, he eventually leaves without paying. We are then expected to cover the once again grossly overpriced bill (instead of a can of local beer, which normally costs 1 CUC, we're supposed to pay 3 CUC per can and his as well). We pay for our drinks but not his. The waiter follows us, but we stand firm — today we refuse to be ripped off again. The overpriced bill is enough. Once again annoyed by a single idiot, we head to bed.

On the way to Matanzas we could have also visited San Diego de los Baños. Here you'll find a balneario (still under restoration), the Cueva de los Portales (this was Che Guevara's military headquarters in 1962 and guided tours are available), the Parque  La Güira (a wonderful park that according to reports is somewhat dilapidated but still has its charm), and the 20-square-kilometer Parque Nacional de la Güira, which can be explored on foot with a guide.