Lido Funchal to Camara de Lobos
Today we are feeling fit again and start with a coastal hike along the sea from Lido Funchal to Camara de Lobos. From our hotel we head downhill to the Complexo Balnear Lido in Funchal's hotel district. From here we follow the coastline, passing two beach pools and Magic Rocks, a bar named after the bizarre rock formation in front of it. At the monument of Joao Goncalves Zarco we take a stairway past the Doca do Cavacas restaurant, through a tunnel and down to the beach, then back up to the promenade which is partly built on stilts. There are also some nice restaurants along the way. We turn around at the cement factory and head back.
Garajau Nature Reserve
Around noon we take a taxi back to the hotel and switch to our rental car, which was delivered to us. We rented it for a week at about 100 euros including insurance. Off we go to explore the rest of the island. First up is the east coast. We drive past Funchal to the Garajau Nature Reserve. This is a very special nature reserve as it is not located directly on the island of Madeira. It lies in the Atlantic along the south coast of the island. At the far eastern end of Funchal Bay sits this underwater marine reserve, extending from the tidal coastal strip down to a depth of 50 meters. Established in 1986, it is the first and so far only marine reserve in all of Portugal.
Fishing is strictly prohibited in this reserve and ship traffic is very limited. We were told that divers can observe numerous large marine animals here, including manta rays.
Ponta do Garajau
We stop at Ponta do Garajau, a beautiful viewpoint offering a stunning view of Funchal and the coastline. Here you will also find a "small" replica of the Christ the Redeemer statue from Rio de Janeiro! A cable car takes you down to the beach below — definitely recommended in summer.
Santa Cruz
We continue through Canico, a small town very popular with German tourists, featuring a parish church.
Our next stop is Santa Cruz, another small town with an old market hall, a very pretty town hall, a pebble beach and promenade. The little town has a pedestrian zone with nice cafes and restaurants. From the promenade you can watch planes on their approach to Madeira's very special airport (provided they are coming from the west. If not, head to Pico do Facho east of the airport) — a stop well worth making.
Pico do Facho
It is getting dark soon and we drive on, past the extraordinary airport of Madeira, which is partly built on pillars.
We head up to Pico do Facho. A narrow road leads up the mountain with superb views of the coast and the airport. From here you can watch the planes and look across to Machico.
Machico is the third-largest town on Madeira.
Machico
Worth seeing is Banda d'Alem, the former fishing quarter with a yacht harbor, cafes and a light sandy beach (note: the sand was imported from Africa). Machico also had three forts in total, of which two are still standing: the unfortunately inaccessible Forte de Sao Joao Baptista at the far eastern end, and the triangular Forte de Nossa Senhora da Amparo, which now houses the tourist information office and sits on the waterfront promenade.
Also impressive is the 15th-century parish church Nossa Senhora da Conceicao with its three marble columns donated by King Manuel I, which somehow do not quite fit the church. The town hall is located nearby.
Another sight is the Capela dos Milagres, the first church on Madeira dating from 1420, whose name translates to Chapel of Miracles.
It is getting late and we set off for the drive back to the hotel.
