Getting to Madeira
December 25th
We set off from Oberwinden on December 25th heading to Freiburg (Breisgau) main station and from there on to Frankfurt Airport. Our flight takes us first to Lisbon. We arrive in Funchal at 00:20 local time with one hour of time difference. The landing was spectacular — with the typical downdrafts on Madeira, it felt as if the plane had been pushed down onto the runway. Our hotel for two weeks is the Hotel Flametree. It's a small hotel with wonderful, super friendly staff and a sensational breakfast. The view of Funchal from the rooftop terrace is also fantastic. We can highly recommend this hotel — the value for money is excellent.
Numerous airlines such as Lufthansa, TAP, and EasyJet fly to Funchal. Pilots need special additional training due to the challenging approach. The flight time is approximately 4 hours.
Funchal is conveniently accessible from the airport by bus or taxi.
Walking Tour of Funchal - Madeira
December 26th
After breakfast, we head out on foot into the capital Funchal. After getting lost and walking through our first car tunnel on foot, we arrive at the marina of Funchal.
Porto Santo & Ilhéu da Pontinha
At the ferry port to Porto Santo, we immediately notice a sort of fortress that we want to visit right away. The "Vice Minister" explains that this is the Forte São José, located on the Principality of Ilhéu da Pontinha — meaning this is the Principality of Pontinha. The island's owner, self-proclaimed Prince D. Renato de Barros I, is the ruler here, and his subjects are the cats found everywhere on the premises. From the viewing platform, you have a wonderful view, and to finish, the "Vice Minister" gives us an exclusive look at His Majesty's swimming pool. We walk through a tunnel and what do we see? The ocean — yes, very exclusive and grand indeed. Overall quite funny and free to visit, or for a small donation.
Originally, the rock was sold in 1903 by Prince Carlos I of Portugal to the Blandy family. Art teacher Renato de Barros purchased the property from the Blandy family in 2000 and thus does not fall under Portuguese jurisdiction — a special status that Portugal is not particularly comfortable with.
Avenida do Mar - Funchal
After a short coffee break, we continue along the Avenida do Mar. This is the promenade along Funchal's marina (harbor). Incidentally, this is also where the "Vagrant" is moored — the former Beatles yacht, now converted into a restaurant.
From the Estrada Monumental, with its larger hotels, along the harbor and the Avenida do Mar, you pass some of the most beautiful buildings. For example, you walk past the Fortaleza de São Lourenço. This fort was part of a ring of fortifications that surrounded Funchal from the 17th to the 19th century. Today it serves as the residence of the Minister and the Military Commander. Unfortunately, we couldn't visit it due to renovation works.
The path continues past the island parliament (Assembleia Legislativa Regional), which has been housed in this building, the old customs house, since 1982. Directly opposite, right by the sea, is the Praça da Novo. Here you can take a break and watch the cruise ships. We continue past another square, the Praça da Autonomia, the Teleférico to Monte, and reach the fortress of São Tiago, which gleams yellow and is visible from afar. The Forte de São Tiago sits on the eastern edge of Funchal. From its platform, you have a wonderful view of the sea and Funchal. There is also a Museu de Arte Contemporânea (Museum of Contemporary Art) here.
We continue to the Igreja do Socorro. It was built as a pilgrimage chapel in the early 16th century after the plague epidemic. Two centuries later, the Church of Mercy was built here with a beautiful baroque façade. Opposite lies a bathing facility. We linger here for a long time, watching the heavy waves and the spray from the strong surf.
We head back through the old town, the Santa Maria quarter with its narrow alleys, corner shops, souvenir shops, and bars. Be warned: the restaurants here often have pushy touts.
Avenida Arriaga - Funchal
Along the way, we grab a bite at the Mercado das Tapas, located right next to the unfortunately closed market — here you can get delicious tapas for just around 1 €.
The path takes us further through the city along the Avenida Arriaga, the main boulevard lined with jacaranda trees where the Christmas market is also held. It's striking that the streets are laid out with small stones — all of this, stone by stone, placed by hand! The boulevard runs from the cathedral to the Praça do Infante with its monument to Henry the Navigator. Along this street you'll find the municipal theater Teatro Municipal Baltazar Dias and the former Chamber of Commerce with its traditional azulejo tile panels, as well as the Ritz and arguably Funchal's most famous landmark, the Sé Cathedral. The Sé Cathedral is Funchal's main church, built in the Manueline style between 1485 and 1514, and it's well worth a look inside. The wooden ceiling with its ivory inlays is particularly impressive.
In the evening, we dined near the Teleférico — probably the only restaurant without a tout. To wrap up the day, we visited the Christmas market, which is spread across the Avenida Arriaga and the Jardim Municipal park.
