Soller Bay on Mallorca

Hiking to Trou de Fer

Hiking through the Forêt de Bébour to Trou de Fer

Saturday, 16 May

After a hearty breakfast, we set off for Col de Bébour and enjoyed a magnificent view over the Forêt de Bébour, behind which lies Réunion's only primary rainforest, Takamaka.

A few more kilometres along the Route Forestière de Bélouve, and we reached our starting point just under 3 km before the Gîte de Bélouve — a small restaurant with overnight accommodation for hikers. Off we go — today's route: Trou de Fer (No. 45 from the Rother Hiking Guide — La Réunion*) — loosely translated "Hell".

In reality, it is a gorge where waterfalls plunge up to 300 metres into the river Bras de Caverne, which unfortunately cannot be easily reached from below — unless you embark on a 2–3 day canyoning tour.

The Grande Mare Swamp

A short detour leads to the Grande Mare swamp with a small pond and a clearing, from where — on a clear day — you can catch a glimpse of Piton des Neiges.

On the Way to Trou de Fer

It is a stunning hike through an enchanted forest with abundant moss, ferns (up to 20 metres tall), palms, various conifers and impenetrable undergrowth. Particularly striking and mystical are the fallen tamarind trunks, which serve as hosts for ferns, lichens and mosses.

Here you can also find flowers growing wild that you would normally buy in flower shops back home: fuchsias, calla lilies, begonias and more.

The hike is partly "easy going" along some newly built wooden boardwalks. However, there are also sections over wet roots, slippery rocks and rotting wooden planks that are extremely slick — plus plenty of mud, especially when it rains heavily as it did in our case. So make sure to bring proper footwear and rain gear.

Trou de Fer

Here's an extra tip: get up early, because around midday it usually starts to rain, and we only managed a brief glimpse into the Trou de Fer before it was shrouded in clouds again.

From Trou de Fer to Gîte de Bélouve

This section of the trail really puts our boots to the test. Extremely soft, muddy ground makes walking tough, but a well-deserved refreshment at the Gîte beckons.

At the Gîte de Bélouve

A stopover at the Gîte de Bélouve is also well worth it — they serve delicious cake or a hearty lunch for a mid-hike break! Above all, you are supposed to have a wonderful view of the Cirque de Salazie and Hell-Bourg from here — provided the clouds don't block the view once again.

That's a Wrap for Today

After this trek, we more than earned our picnic at Col de Bébour with a view of today's hiking route.

For dessert — red berries — we quickly foraged along the roadside, just like everyone else. Every few metres, people stood picking their share from the roadside bushes, almost like a competition. We had no idea what they were called, but they tasted like a cross between gooseberries, lychees and sour cherries, and looked like rosehips.

Continue reading the La Réunion travel report: From La Plaine des Palmistes to Hell-Bourg — Salazie.

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