Breakfast at 7:30 AM. We pack our bags and head to Arenal National Park (opening hours: Sunday to Monday 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM, Tel.: (506) 2200-4192, La Fortuna, San Carlos) – retracing our Costa Rica journey from 2006. We take about 3 hours on the trail to the 1992 lava flow and back (only 1.8 km but plenty to see). We get lucky and spot white-faced capuchin monkeys, a toucan, coatis, various birds unknown to us, and all kinds of insects. Particularly impressive is the 400-year-old kapok tree standing over 40 metres tall. The park also features a second hiking trail measuring 3.4 km.

We then set off towards Playa del Coco on the Pacific coast. The total distance around Lake Arenal to the coast is about 120 km. Along the way there are wonderful views over the lake, of the Arenal volcano itself, and breathtaking landscapes. We take a few photos of the Swiss village, which even features a model railway and a panoramic restaurant that rotates 360°.

Halfway around Lake Arenal we stop at the popular German Bakery (Panaeteria Alemana) in Nuevo Arenal. Thomas Pferner's café – a German expat who dropped out of the rat race – has been open since 1998. We had visited it 7 years earlier, as had many others. It has lost none of its charm or quality. A cool, down-to-earth welcome, then we order: 2 lattes, an apple turnover, and a specialty made with honey, macadamia nut, and coconut – delicious. If you're in the mood for hearty German cuisine, you've also come to the right place. Hefeweizen with bratwurst and sauerkraut is on the menu alongside many other classic German home recipes. No wonder busloads of tourists, locals, and independent travellers stop here – not just from good old Germany. At Arenal we met an American couple already looking forward to their "Strudel".

After a total of 3 hours' driving, we reach Playa del Coco on the Pacific coast. It's a lively little resort town with plenty of bars, tourist shops, and a party atmosphere. Great for diving, but not really recommended if you're looking for relaxation.