Tortuguero National Park
September 22
Today means an early start. We are picked up at 6:35 a.m. and head to Tortuguero National Park by bus and boat — Tortuguero itself is only accessible by water. Frank Simms, our tour guide for the next few days, greets us and we set off straight away. Along the way we make a stop for a second breakfast at a lodge belonging to the Mawamba Group, about an hour before reaching Tortuguero. En route we cross a valley where two rivers run side by side — one light, one dark.
Tortuguero
We arrive at our accommodation, the Mawamba Lodge, at around 1:00 p.m. — our home for the next two days. We check in and immediately sign up for the optional tours (Turtle Nesting Tour and Good Morning Tour) scheduled for the following day. Bags dropped off in the room, and then it's time to head out to the village of Tortuguero.
The Village of Tortuguero
In the afternoon we explore the village of Tortuguero. We learn a lot about its history: originally settled by Nicaraguans who caught and ate turtles for their own subsistence... later, Americans arrived and began catching turtles commercially. Tortuguero is a wonderfully wild and romantic village with a handful of shops and a few bars, home to around 700 people. There is one main street and a few remnants from the early settlement era. On our way back to the Mawamba Lodge we walk along the beach, hoping to spot some turtles.
Turtle Nesting Tour
At 9:00 p.m. the Turtle Nesting Tour finally begins. First by boat, then without lights onto the beach. Rangers signal with red lights and we sprint — too late, we only catch a glimpse of two turtles disappearing back into the Caribbean. A short while later we run again, and this time we are rewarded: guided by a single red light, we witness a "young lady" of 18 years and around 120 kilograms laying and burying between 100 and 120 eggs. An unforgettable experience! Photography is prohibited as it disturbs the turtles — so there is no photo here... but the image is burned into our memory forever. The cost of this experience is $30 USD, which goes directly toward turtle conservation — money very well spent.
Continue with the Costa Rica trip report: Exploring Tortuguero National Park.
