Up early. We're visiting our first volcano. The Poas is the most visited national park in Costa Rica. The park is open from 08:00 to 15:30. The volcano last erupted in 1953, leaving behind a crater 1.3 km wide and 300 m deep. There was also some minor activity in 1989 and 1995.
The Poas itself rises to 2,704 m — so pack a jacket, as you'll constantly see visitors shivering up here. For the leisurely traveller, the Poas is ideal: you can drive almost all the way to the crater rim at 2,574 metres. There are two hiking trails at the crater: the Sendero Escalonia and the Circuito Laguna Botos. We take the roughly 30-minute loop on the Circuito Laguna Botos, leading through a small cloud forest down to Laguna Botos, a lake in an extinct crater. Along the way there is a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the main crater.

Around midday we set off towards Arenal Volcano. The drive from Poas to Fortuna takes about three hours. Along the way we stop in Sarché, a town famous for its brightly painted ox-carts. Also striking are the countless furniture workshops producing pieces in leather and wood. Most workshops can be visited and their products purchased between 8:00 and 16:00.

At 1,736 metres above sea level we reach Zarcero, home to the extraordinary Parque Francisco Alvarado in front of the Iglesia de San Rafael. The park is well worth a visit — it offers plenty of photo opportunities and the mountain air is simply wonderful.

All along the route there are breathtaking views and sweeping cloud formations, until finally the Arenal Volcano emerges from the clouds on the horizon. Our destination for today is in sight.

Just before nightfall we arrive at the Volcano Lodge & Gardens.
www.volcanolodge.com, info@volcanolodge.com, Tel: +506 2479 1717, Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica. A wonderful hotel complex with lush gardens and superb views of Arenal Volcano from the rooms and pools.

We enjoy the sunset from the hot tub before heading to the Lava Lounge & Bar for dinner. Not the cheapest restaurant in Costa Rica, but very good, friendly, and with a great atmosphere.