From Playa Grande to Monteverde
September 30
Breakfast at Kike's Place on Playa Grande, then we head via Liberia toward Palo Verde. We make a brief stop at a stunning waterfall, the Cataratas de Llanos de Cortés, located on private land. A donation of 2,000 Colones to the local school La escuela de Llanos del Cortes grants free access. It's 1 km over four-wheel-drive terrain — at least during the rainy season — then only a few hundred metres to the waterfall Llanos de Cortés. Definitely worth the detour. To cool off we enjoy an ice-cold, fresh coconut.
Palo Verde - Guanacaste
Next we continue to the Palo Verde National Park. Open 08:00–16:00. The park was founded in 1977 and covers 198 km². Its highest point reaches 268 metres. From the Panamericana to the first hiking trail inside the park it is 30 km of dirt road — 20 km from Bagaces to the park entrance is mostly gravel and loose stones, then 10 km through the park which can be muddy in the rainy season. Probably wonderful for hiking in the dry season, but at 32°C with an estimated 200 mosquitoes per cubic metre of air we cut the hike short and continue toward Monteverde. Along the way we stop at the swamp (Palo Verde Marsh) and watch several wading birds from the boardwalk that stretches far out into the wetlands.
Inside the park visitors discover a protected wetland in the driest province of Costa Rica. For ornithologists, the park — with over 300 recorded bird species — is a must. A visit is best during the dry season from December to May, when the flocks congregate around the remaining lakes. Boat tours through the park can be booked on the Río Tempisque (the ranger at the park entrance can provide information). The 5 hiking trails can be explored independently. A campsite, 30 beds and various other facilities are available.
Monteverde
Just before nightfall we reach Monteverde via the notoriously rough road. The streets are mostly coarse rock, partly gravel with deep ruts in places. According to the sat-nav it should take just over an hour — in reality the drive takes nearly 2 hours. Allow extra time. We book our accommodation at Cala Lodge for the next 3 nights. The owners are very friendly and helpful. At breakfast, monkeys and coatis occasionally visit the terrace. Beautifully peaceful in the forest and a great base for exploring Monteverde.
Monteverde:
Rainy season sees 8,000 l/m² of rainfall per year. Apparently an entire year's average rainfall for Germany can fall here in a single week.
Farmers have been encouraged not to clear the forests and instead earn extra income through activities such as night walks and similar guided experiences — and the great thing is, it actually works.
