Soller Bay on Mallorca

Tenorio Volcano National Park

Volcan Tenorio National Park

September 27
We set off at eight for Volcan Tenorio National Park. From La Fortuna near Arenal Volcano the drive takes about 1.5 hours. We take the paved Route 4 via San Rafael (roughly 50 km from La Fortuna). From San Rafael it is another half-hour on a dirt road. We arrive at the trailhead entrance La Paz (Juntos por el Sendero La Paz). Visitors approaching from the west enter the national park via Route 6 to Bijagua.

The trail is no longer officially maintained, so the park charges no entrance fee at this entrance. To keep the station from closing, however, the rangers collect donations and rubber boots can be hired here. A small restaurant provides welcome refreshments before or after the hike.

From the Puesto entrance it is about 2.6 km to Los Teñideros on the Rio Celeste. This is where the water turns blue — an incredible, vivid blue. Halfway along the trail there is a fork leading to the waterfall — around 450 metres away. Just before Los Teñideros, hot springs called Aguas Termales bubble up in the river. A small sign and a broken wooden fence mark the spot. From Los Teñideros it is only a short distance to Lago Azul and another 400 metres to a beautiful viewpoint with a magnificent view of Tenorio Volcano. By this point you are heading towards Puesto El Pilon, the other entrance. After a further 600 metres you reach the spur trail down to the waterfall, now seen from the opposite side — well worth it. By this point we had been walking for about four hours, having taken our time. Though not officially permitted, we cross the Rio Celeste below the waterfall just as the guide and his group ahead of us did, saving about an hour on the return to the starting point Puesto.

On the way back we are lucky enough to spot several sleeping sloths and a pair of woodpeckers foraging for food. We round off the day with a delicious dinner followed by a soak in the hot tub in the rain.

Continue with the Costa Rica travel report: Arenal Volcano to Playa del Coco.

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