Here you will find a restaurant, an old colonial-era mansion, and several shops where artisans sell their handmade products. Among other things, the famous model ships are built here — the same kind that used to be made at La Marine, 2 km away, and which can cost several hundred euros. It seems La Marine has "relocated".

Next, we head up to Victoria, the capital and the only city in the Seychelles. About 23,000 people live in Victoria, which is roughly one third of the entire Seychellois population.
We start our walk along Independence Avenue at the Clock Tower, a replica of the clock on London's Vauxhall Bridge. It was a gift from the British government in 1903. Contrary to many texts on the internet, it is not a replica of Big Ben, but it has nevertheless become a landmark of Victoria. At the Court House just around the corner, an open-air public hearing is taking place.

If you are hungry, the Pirates Arms right next door is a great place for a good and affordable meal. At Independence House we turn around and walk back on the other side, after catching a glimpse of the harbour. Along the way we pass the National Museum, followed by the main post office in Liberty House.

A quick right-left combination and we find ourselves on Revolution Avenue, a bustling shopping street with two beautiful market halls offering everything your stomach could desire. After a fresh coconut, we continue until the Hindu Temple appears on the left.

A visit to the only Hindu temple in the Seychelles is well worth it. The entrance arch with its ornate decorations is particularly remarkable. If you take off your shoes, you are welcome to enter. Admission is free; donations are appreciated.
From there, we continue to the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Then we walk back to the central car park near the stadium.

Tip: Street parking in Victoria costs SR 2 — tickets must be bought in nearby shops. Alternatively, park at the larger public spaces, otherwise you will face a fine of SR 200.

The Botanical Garden of Victoria (admission SR 100) is home to at least one specimen of every plant found in the Seychelles. Founded in 1771, it is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Among its highlights is a massive Coco de Mer palm, bearing fruits weighing up to 18 kg — found in the wild only on the islands of Praslin, La Digue, and Curieuse. Another specimen (one male, one female) can be found at the Jardin du Roi.

We drive on through Bel Air and Le Sans Soucis, both lovely and upscale suburban neighbourhoods where photography is partly prohibited and where Seychelles government officials live, alongside several consulates. There is an old cemetery at the Sans Soucis bus stop.

Then we cross the Grand Bois, the second-highest mountain on Mahé at 667 metres. We stop at the ruins of an old 17th-century mission with a magnificent view of the west coast. Thick, cooling clouds drift above our heads — a welcome relief after the humid heat of the city. This is an excellent starting point for various hikes. Trail maps are available at Independence House in Victoria for a small fee.

The road now winds slowly downhill. After just a few kilometres we reach the tea factory on Mahé, which can be visited until 4:30 pm. We enjoy a pot of tea here to recharge before tackling the serpentine road all the way down to the sea.

We then drive north along the coast until the road ends. At Anse Souillac, we stop for a snorkelling break at the Port Launay Marine National Park. We park the car next to the Constance Ephelia Resort, since cars are frequently broken into at the more secluded beaches. The presence of the hotel staff here puts us at ease — though even here, plenty of broken car glass litters the ground.

After the sunset at Anse à la Mouche, we drive straight over the mountain back to our accommodation. Driving at night is quite hazardous due to the lack of street lighting, cyclists and pedestrians on the road, narrow streets, and — last but not least — the reckless bus drivers. It is not uncommon for oncoming traffic to use your lane.