Soller Bay on Mallorca

Grande Terre Tour

Grande Terre Tour - Guadeloupe

Tuesday, October 6

Plage de Bois Jolan & Plage des Raisins Clairs near Saint-Francois

An early start is in order, as we have an island tour ahead of us today — more precisely, a tour of Grande Terre (the right, drier part of Guadeloupe). Our first stop is Plage de Bois Jolan — a gorgeous beach, completely unspoiled with just a few sunbathers. The next dream beach is in Saint-Francois: Plage des Raisins Clairs.

At Pointe des Chateaux

Next stop is the eastern tip of Guadeloupe: Pointe des Chateaux. Simply park up and walk the roughly one-hour trail to the cross and back. From the cross you get a magnificent view of the entire surroundings. Here you find the wild, Atlantic side of the island. On the way back, a short detour to the beaches is worthwhile: Anse Tarare — a beautifully located nudist beach that ends at the gorgeous viewpoint Point de Tartare.

We leave the peninsula and continue heading north.

Le Moule

In Le Moule we make a quick stop in the town center. If you're thirsty, you can pay a free visit to the local rum distillery Damoiseau.

La Porte d'Enfer

If you want to continue the tour, head straight to the next highlight: Porte d'Enfer — or translated, the Gate of Hell! Park up and follow the signs along the stunning lagoon. On a roughly one-hour walk you get to know the raw power of the Atlantic. We see the Gate of Hell and the unique cliffs. A few hundred meters further you reach the Trou de Souffleur. On a clear day you can see as far as the islands of Desirade, Montserrat and Antigua.

Pointe de la Grande Vigie

To round things off, we make one more stop at Pointe de la Grande Vigie with a short circular trail (entrance at the car park) and stunning views at the northernmost tip of the island. Here you can feel the power of the Atlantic, which is gradually reclaiming the island piece by piece.

Port-Louis - Anse de Souffleur

After all that hiking and heat, we've earned a cool-down: we stop in Port-Louis at Anse de Souffleur — a wonderful beach, perfect for refreshing and relaxing. The small reefs also invite you to go snorkeling.

L'Ancienne Prison de Petit Canal

After our swim we feel reasonably cooled down and drive a bit further to Petit-Canal. Here we go in search of the L'Ancienne Prison de Petit-Canal. We had seen a photo of the old, crumbling and overgrown prison in a magazine and knew we had to see it in person. Below the church we ask a local, since nothing is signposted — (just pronounce the word "Prison" with a bit of a French accent and that does the trick...) — We are immediately understood and led to the unique masonry that has been taken over by a banyan tree — the scene is truly impressive.

Morne A L'eau

Our last stop for today is the cemetery in Morne a L'eau, famous throughout the Caribbean. It is enormous and absolutely stunning — especially the black and white tiles. We walk around the cemetery for a while, enjoying the silence before our drive back to Sainte-Anne begins.

continue in the Guadeloupe trip report: Beach day at the south coast Sainte-Anne & Petit Havre.

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