Our first stop is at the Emerald Pool. Along a beautifully laid-out trail through the still-pristine rainforest, you reach a magnificent waterfall that cascades into a natural pool where you can take a wonderful swim. Fortunately, no cruise ship is anchored today, otherwise we would hardly have had the place to ourselves. The return path leads visitors past various viewpoints offering splendid views of the east coast. Again and again, you can spot small trails that were once used by escaped slaves and are still used by locals today.

We head to the east coast and stop at the Catholic church St. Marie of the Caribs near Salybia. It is located very close to the coast where Christopher Columbus discovered the island on November 3, 1493. He was unable to set foot on Dominica, however, as the waters were too shallow. Yet he gave the island the name of that day of the week. It was a Sunday — "Domingo" in Spanish. The church is therefore shaped like a ship and displays scenes showing that the indigenous people did not know whether to react with hostility or friendliness. Before Christianization, each man had up to 6 wives, the chief up to 12. Even today, there are still five women for every one man, though now only one wife is permitted. Since the great Caribbean earthquake in 2005, the church sits on a coastal segment that was expected to break off into the sea and has been uninhabited since.

We find ourselves in the approximately 15 km² area, the reserve of the Carib Indians. Ken, our driver from the village of Bataka, is himself an Indian and his brother was even once the chief of modern times. After a 5-year term, a new chief is elected. So we receive plenty of fascinating information. The Carib Reserve was established in 1903 by the British. Nearly 4,000 Carib Indians live in 8 villages spread across the most rugged part of Dominica, partly in impoverished conditions.

We visit the newly built village Kalinago Barana Aute, which illustrates the original living conditions of the Indians and is explained through a guided tour. At around EUR 7, it is highly recommended, even though unfortunately the largest share of the revenue goes to the Caribbean Development Bank. Our guide is a friendly young Indian woman who hopes to finance her studies through tips. Various indigenous crafts such as baskets and small model boats are also offered for sale.

More information at: www.kalinagoarchive.org/kalinago-barana-aute/

An impressive stretch leads through the national park. Alternating between dense rainforest and fantastic views of the mountains Morne Trois Pitons (1,387 m) and Morne Diablotins (1,447 m). Narrow roads wind through the terrain until we reach civilization again.

...life is good here.

continue in the Dominica tour travel report: Cabrits National Park and Morne Diablotins National Park.