Our first destination today is the capital of Guadeloupe, Basse-Terre.
We don't linger long in the tense little town since parking spots are extremely scarce even in the off-season and the activity feels rather hectic. The neighborhoods we drive through aren't particularly pretty. There are some nice colonial houses and the city stretches up the entire hill towards St.-Claude. We visit the 5-hectare Fort Louis Delgres. Free of charge in the off-season. During our visit, 20 men are busy trimming the lawns for the upcoming season. The fort is well worth a visit as large portions are preserved - an old cemetery, the small and large powder magazines (Petit & Grande Poudriere), the prison, the Memorial Delgres, and numerous other buildings plus the entire outer wall. Various events and video projections show the slave uprising on Guadeloupe in May 1802. Louis Delgres, born on Guadeloupe as a mulatto and an experienced soldier under the British flag, led a fierce resistance with 400 men and a few women against Napoleon's troops who wanted to reinstate slavery. Realizing they were outmatched, they resolved to take as many French soldiers as possible down with them. In 1998, Delgres was inducted into the Pantheon and is the fort's namesake.

Next we head south via Vieux-Fort along the coast on a winding panoramic road to Trois-Rivieres. Along the way we stop at Pointe a Vieux-Fort (ocean viewpoint), Plage de Grande Anse with its black sand beach, and Pointe de la Grande Anse with former fortifications - not really worth a stop.

As the weather improves, we're hopeful for our hike to Chutes de Carbet Cascade No. 3. At Capesterre-Belle-Eau we leave the N1 and drive up the D3 into the mountains. The road eventually turns into a sort of farm track but despite all doubts leads to the parking lot. Just before the parking lot there's a botanical garden on the right (if the weather doesn't cooperate). The trail leads partly along maintained paths through the forest. The heavy rains of recent days and deteriorated trail sections make for a muddy hike. At times we sink in nearly ankle-deep in mud and need almost 3 hours for the normally 2-hour round trip. The trail is 4 km. The last few meters to the cascade go steeply downhill with a safety rope. It was worth it - the 20-meter cascade absolutely rewards us for our muddy trek.

We make a quick detour on the D4 to Chutes de Carbet Cascade 1 and 2.
At the entrance to the well-maintained path to Cascade 2, we have a good distant view of both waterfalls. Since it's too late, we leave it at that. A hike to the 2nd cascade takes about 1 hour round trip, and to the 1st upper cascade about 3 hours (round trip).

From here there are 2 more good hikes to a crater lake or a gorge at the crater lake, the "Citerne", taking 1.5 or 3 hours respectively.

Cool rooms/tree houses on Guadeloupe are available on Booking.com.