Passing Through Fort-de-France
Sunday, October 4th
To start the day, we take our usual morning swim in the sea at dawn. After a quick bite, we head back into the jungle. Just like yesterday, we drive via Fort-de-France to the N3 junction.
Jardin de Balata
Today the Jardin de Balata is finally supposed to be open! This botanical garden in Balata is considered one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean, with its breathtaking flora and more than 300 catalogued plant species. Even though we had already seen quite a lot, there were plenty of flowers and plants we had never encountered before. On top of that, the garden is truly designed and maintained with great care and love — a must-visit even for non-botanists.
On the Way to St-Pierre
Next stop: St-Pierre — naturally taking the direct route on the D1 via Fonds-St-Denis. However, halfway there the road is blocked — so watch out for warning signs (Route Barrée). The waterfall advertised along the way is nice but not really worth the stop or detour.
So back to the old route: onto the N3 via Le Morne-Rouge toward St-Pierre. Here's a tip: if you spot a net with a hummingbird caught in it, don't start complaining right away — it might well be bird researchers who actually mean well :-) We had the opportunity to see one of the rarest birds on the island here. Onward we go..
Our first stop is the Volcanological Museum (€3) with photographs and remnants from the eruption of May 8, 1902. Here you can see a massive bell that was melted together, molten bottles, petrified spaghetti, and learn about the sole survivor of the catastrophe: Cyparis. A prisoner who survived in his jail cell thanks to the thick walls, albeit with severe burns, and later exhibited his scars in a circus. After the museum, we check out the walls of the theater and the prison. After so much history, we need some refreshment: a freshly chilled coconut from a roadside vendor. Freshly chopped open and then scooped out to get at the flesh — wonderfully Caribbean!
St-Pierre
In the scorching heat we reach St-Pierre. First a quick snack, then we ask around for directions to the sights — but with hand gestures and a bit of creativity, it all works out.
Anse Couleuvre
Due to the heat we're completely drenched in sweat — so off to our dream beach, which came highly recommended. It's called Anse Couleuvre and lies at the end of the D10 road past Le Précheur. Even when you think the road can't possibly go any further, with lianas hanging in the way and the road barely wide enough for half a car — you're in the right place and it's absolutely worth it: a black sand beach reached via a short trail through the rainforest and past an abandoned cacao factory (very interesting). By the way, if you're lucky, you might spot mongooses along the way.
Evening Mood
Around 4 PM we leave the beach, as we don't want to drive back in the dark. Along the way we stop a few times to enjoy the views and take some photos. An unforgettable sunset crowns our last day on Martinique. Finally back at the hotel, we take a moonlit swim and get ready for our farewell dinner — saying goodbye is really hard.
continue the Caribbean trip report:: Onward to Grande-Terre, Guadeloupe
