Day Trip to Trinidad
Wednesday, October 22
At 8:00 a.m. our flight with Caribbean Airlines departs for Trinidad.
The flight takes about 20 minutes and costs 48 US dollars per person round trip.
At Trinidad airport, Trini Harry is waiting for us. He is a German expat who has been living on Trinidad for more than 10 years and works as an official tour guide, also for well-known travel operators.
La Brea Pitch Lake
First we drive south on the highway, past Chaguanas (the largest settlement on Trinidad) until we reach the La Brea Pitch Lake (a raw asphalt lake) at 11:00 a.m.
We visit the museum next to the lake, which displays all sorts of objects the lake has released over the years.
Walking Across the La Brea Pitch Lake
Accompanied by some rain, we set out on foot across the asphalt lake. Lindsay, our guide, shows us everything of interest. We learn that the previously excavated holes refill themselves from below, as long as they are not filled with rainwater. The water is too heavy for the underground pressure to push through.
Explosive and the Danger of Sinking
There are many areas that are not walkable because they are nearly liquid. On sunny, hot days about half the lake is impassable. Today, due to the rain, it is not quite as dramatic. In the museum there was a photo of a tourist who dared to enter the lake without a guide. They managed to rescue him, but it was a very close call.
In many places sulfur gas escapes, which during the dry season and heat tends to ignite spontaneously. Today, however, we have to help with a match.
The Real Life
Along the shores, cashew trees and water lilies grow in water-filled zones. Guppies also live here — fish that could not survive in normal, non-sulfurous water. The water lilies bloom from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and smell incredibly good. There is also a white blossom with different opening hours :-)
The La Brea Pitch Lake is:
Connected underground to Venezuela.
Deeper than 200 m — it could not be measured more precisely because the drilling equipment sank at that depth.
The only asphalt lake that produces road-building quality asphalt.
One of only two other asphalt lakes, located in California and Northern Europe.
With its sulfurous water, it is excellent for the skin.
A large portion of roads in Germany and China were built with asphalt from the Pitch Lake.
According to legend, the asphalt lake was created when Caima Indians hunted and ate the beautiful hummingbird, whereupon the earth opened up, the village sank into it, and left behind the molten tar.
Cremation by the Sea
After our refreshment, we continue heading north. Along the way, we stop at a Hindu ceremonial site.
Two cremations are taking place here, accompanied by a beautiful melody. Afterwards, the ashes are given to the sea.
Hindu cremations take place regularly on Trinidad. A large proportion of the island's inhabitants are of Hindu faith.
Lunch Break at the Shopping Mall
After this extraordinary experience, we continue to San Fernando (the second largest city on Trinidad). We take a break at a shopping mall and eat a typical island roti.
A roti is not a "red" sausage but rather a kind of torn flatbread dough with chickpeas, curry, potatoes, and a variable such as
chicken, shrimp, etc. You don't eat with cutlery — instead you take a piece of dough in your hand and use it to scoop up the food. This is a must-try.
Around San Fernando
A lot of industry has settled around San Fernando. Almost everything here revolves around the oil and gas industry. A hill rises in the middle of the city — its landmark.
Hindu Temple Waterloo
Next we visit the Hindu Temple Waterloo in the sea. Here too, people are paying their respects to the deceased who was just cremated.
From here you have a great view of the island capital Port of Spain, right next to the Caroni Swamp and the northern mountain range in the hinterland. These are foothills of the Andes that extend all the way past Tobago. In prehistoric times, Trinidad & Tobago were connected to the mainland of Venezuela.
Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary
Then we drive to the Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary. Our tour through the mangrove swamps begins by boat. Occasionally a caiman lies on the riverbank. At one point, two channels meet where the water does not mix but flows side by side.
Gliding quietly, we observe the birds. We spot the white and grey ibis, ospreys, and later swarms of crimson Scarlet Ibises — the national bird of Trinidad.
The bird, now under species protection, has fortunately recovered well in numbers. Previously they were coveted for their beautiful feathers, which were used to make carnival costumes.
We watch as the birds return from their daily foraging to their night roosts on a wooded island. They share this with the white and grey ibis. Hundreds of birds arrive in flocks and settle in the trees, with the white birds retreating into the interior of the canopy while the Scarlets settle visibly on the outside. A magnificent sight.
At dusk we slowly drive back to the car and are nearly eaten alive by mosquitoes along the way. The good OFF spray is highly recommended here.
At the airport we share a farewell beer with Harry before flying back to Tobago.
Port of Spain
P.S. We skipped the capital Port of Spain for reasons of time and safety. It would take about 2 hours stuck in traffic to get to the old town and back. Moreover, the newspapers had reported many deaths from shootings on the open street in the days before. Most victims are juvenile drug gang members under 18.
continue in the Tobago trip report: Shopping Mall and Liming
